Busy Traveler

Autumn Lake Area, Vol. 1

My knowledge of upstate New York geography was pretty much zilch. I’ve been to Rochester and Albany on business, but they were strictly in-and-out trips. Imagine how excited we were to learn that Autumn Lake is within a couple of hours of several gorgeous areas and sights:

• Niagara Falls
• The Finger Lakes
• The Adirondacks
• The Thousand Islands Region
• Cooperstown
• Erie Canal
• Lake Placid
• Wine and culinary trails
• Historical sites, especially from the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812
• Beaches

Later, I will post notes and photos from the places on this list that we explored. However, today and tomorrow I am concentrating on the immediate vicinity of Autumn Lake (Tug Hill Region).

Salmon River

If you like to fish, get yourself to the Salmon River! The fish caught here are consistently rated the largest in New York. I’ve never seen so many people (mostly men) in hip waders! The Salmon River Fish Hatchery is one source of this bounty. We were lucky enough to be there during the fall salmon run and couldn’t believe the density of very large salmon swimming up the ladders to spawn. See the change in the stream’s color on the left of the photo? The dark area on the right is solid salmon.

Before you start fishing, make sure you consult the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) website for rules and regulations. This area is awash in bait and tackle shops, fish cleaning stations, fish smoking services, and any kind of gear you can imagine. My favorite bait and tackle shop is Fat Nancy’s in Pulaski. I was hoping to meet the woman nicknamed Fat Nancy, but it turns out that it’s the name of a huge sturgeon in Lake Ontario that has eluded anglers for years.

www.dec.ny.gov
www.seagrant.sunysb.edu

Lake Ontario: Selkirk Shores

Just minutes away from Autumn Lake, Selkirk Shores is a lovely beach on Lake Ontario. Swimming, fishing, and walking the trails were the main activities when we visited. The Lake is on the direct migration route for many bird species. In the winter, cross-country skiers and snowmobilers enjoy the trails.

nysparks.state.ny.us/parks

Sackets Harbor

Sackets Harbor, only 30 miles across Lake Ontario from Canada, was the site of a pivotal naval battle in the War of 1812. Because it was the headquarters of the US Military for the northern frontier and had a large shipbuilding facility, this strategic location was attacked by the British and Upper Canada forces in 1813. The attack was defeated after a lengthy battle. See www.sacketsharborbattlefield.org for details.

The town of Sackets Harbor is lovely. Beautiful old buildings and hidden gardens present perfect excuses for strolling.

We enjoyed an excellent dinner at Tin Pan Galley on their romantic patio. The dishes were fresh, luscious, and presented beautifully.

www.tinpangalley.com

Coming next: Autumn Lake area, vol. 2

The Cottages at Autumn Lake, NY

After a 45-minute (or so) drive from the Syracuse airport, we turned onto Dean Dr. outside Orwell for our stay at The Cottages at Autumn Lake.

We stayed in Samson’s Chalet, named—as are all the cabins—after a family dog. The cottage was very pretty, with two bedrooms, one bath, kitchen, sitting area with futon, and dining table. It was nicely stocked with TV and movies, s'mores ingredients, cards and games, and toiletries.

And the best part: the view! From each bedroom you see lovely Autumn Lake.

The deck of the cottage is the perfect place to spend all day, contemplating the onset of fall.

If you’re feeling energetic, stroll down to the dock and take one of the canoes or paddleboats out of the cove into the main part of the lake.

Bliss!
thecottagesatautumnlake.com

Coming up: Notes on the area.

Newberry Volcano, OR

The Newberry National Volcanic Monument includes 50,000 acres of lakes, lava flows, and spectacular geologic features. The volcano itself is 20 miles in diameter and the caldera is 4 by 5 miles in diameter. We drove a steep, rough road with hairpin turns up the side of the volcano to Paulina Peak.

From the peak (7,985 ft) we marveled at the two lakes that were formed when pumice and lava deposits divided the crater/caldera in two.

 

...and savored beautiful views of the area.

The other part of this park that we saw is Lava River Cave, a mile-long lava tube that crosses under US97. We arrived late in the day, descended into the tube and walked about halfway through before we had to turn around or else spend the night there. The tube was lit only with our cheap flashlights and the occasional lantern rented from the ranger station. No time for a tripod, but here a couple of photos I found online.

Goodbye daylight! At least there were stairs and rails for part of the way.

This is waaaaay more light than we had, but necessary for professional photography:

Another unique experience that was great fun!

Newberry Monument site: www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/newberrynvml

Notes: Portland and Eugene, OR

Portland

We stayed our first night at the aloft Hotel near the Portland airport. We weren’t nearly cool enough for the place, but it was interesting. The lobby is a fun hangout place, but the rooms are small with vintage-y IKEA-ish furnishings. I think Paul hit the closest when he said it looks like what the average American thinks a European hostel looks like. Good description, but it was much nicer than any hostel I’ve stayed in! www.starwoodhotels.com/alofthotels

We had a fun dinner with the Tveites at the Rogue Distillery & Public House. Probably the best known of Oregon’s microbreweries, this is a popular place, and usually has a wait for tables. No problem, sit in the bar and enjoy one of the 38 beers on tap. I loved the Pale Ale and next time want to try the Chipotle Ale. Our fish and chips were very good and Emily Rose’s salmon melt looked great.
1339 NW Flanders St.
503.222.5910
www.rogue.com

Eugene

We found a lovely spot to eat in Eugene: the Fifth Street Public Market. Besides Marche', which is supposed to have a fabulous Sunday brunch (doesn’t start until 11AM), upstairs is a nice food court and a lovely place to sit and eat.

Plenty of nice shops here, also, including a great kitchen and wine shop (Marche' Provisions).
Corner of Fifth and High
www.5stmarket.com

McKenzie River, OR

Our route over the Cascades followed the McKenzie River upstream from Eugene to Clear Lake.

Two lava flows dammed Clear Lake 3000 years ago and moved into the McKenzie River. The results are two breathtaking waterfalls with foaming white water cascades in between. We first encountered Sahalie (“Heaven” in Chinook Jargon) Falls.

We hiked the Waterfalls Trail along the river and were rewarded with the sight of Koosah (“Sky”) Falls.

The Belknap volcano spewed lava into the river 1500 years ago and sent the river underground for three miles. It reemerges as the serene Tamolitch Pool.

We finished our route at Clear Lake, a popular fishing location.

You could spend every remaining day of your life exploring Oregon and would marvel each day at God’s creation. It certainly made an impression on me.