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On our boat trip around the Thousand Islands, we went ashore on Heart Island to explore Boldt Castle.
The story behind this extravagant structure is gloomy. In 1900, George Boldt was the wealthy proprietor of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City. Being the typical "nouveau riche" millionaire of the time, he built a summer “cottage” for his family in the Thousand Islands. The structure became ever more grandiose to display his love for his wife, Louise.
During four summers, 300 workers constructed the six-story, 120-room castle. Not a single detail or expense was spared. The basement area included a pool and bowling lanes and the children enjoyed a whimsical playhouse.
Even the yacht garage was extravagant.
In 1904, Boldt telegraphed the island and commanded the workers to stop construction -- Louise had died. Boldt never returned to the island, leaving behind the structure as a monument of his love. For 73 years, the castle and its related buildings were untouched, deteriorating from weather and vandals. The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property in 1977 and began restoration.
Most of the rooms on the first floor are restored and furnished, but most of the second, third, and fourth floors are unfinished. There are interesting exhibits in some of these rooms containing artifacts from the Thousand Islands region during this period.
At the top, we were rewarded with beautiful views.
Copyright 2009, Beth SchraderBusy Traveler | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
I knew nothing about this gorgeous area (Yes, thousand island dressing originated here!). From Wikipedia:
The Thousand Islands is the name of an archipelago of islands that straddle the U.S.-Canada border in the Saint Lawrence River as it emerges from the northeast corner of Lake Ontario. They stretch for about 50 miles downstream from Kingston, Ontario. The islands, which number 1,793 in all [other sources say 1,864], range in size from over 40 square miles to smaller islands occupied by a single residence, to even smaller uninhabited outcroppings of rocks that are home to migratory waterfowl. The number of islands was determined using the criteria that any island must be above water level for 365 days per year, bigger than one square foot and support at least one living tree.
On a glorious Indian summer day, we drove to the picturesque town of Alexandria Bay, had lunch, and then set out on a boat tour of the area. The guide said it was the best visibility of the season. I believe it!
In the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century, this area was a summer destination for enormously rich families, many of whom came by train from New York City. They built mansions and beautiful garages for their yachts.
The homeowners included George Boldt, a hotelier; Frederick Bourne, president of the Singer Sewing Machine Company; Andrew McNally of Rand McNally maps; George Pullman, creator of Pullman railroad cars; William Proctor of Proctor and Gamble; and Nathan and Isidor Straus, owners of Macy’s.
Large hotels and guesthouses also catered to well-off visitors. Promotional literature for one advised, “Just bring your trunks and servants.” We saw many of these extravagant mansions along the stretch of the river dubbed “Millionaire’s Row.”
Supposedly, Deer Island is owned by the secret society Skull and Bones. Ohhh, I think I remember a movie set on an island owned by a secret society of wealthy political movers and shakers!
A series of bridges links many of the islands, though most are accessible by boat only. The international boundary runs down the middle of the river, and often the only way to tell if an island house is American or Canadian is to look at the flag flying outside. Legend has it that this bridge spans the two countries. True or not, it’s really cute.
In modern times, the area has been populated by more modest homes, and some not-so-modest.
I want to spend summers here!
www.visit1000islands.com/visitorinfo
www.alexbay.org/travel.nytimes.com/2007/08/24/travel/escapes/24thousand.html
Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader
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If your male friend is dying to go to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, sigh and tell him that you’ll sacrifice your day for him. Drop him off and then go have fun!
www.baseballhall.org
Cooperstown has done a wonderful job for those of us who would rather do other things.
In fact, you first stop should be the Chamber of Commerce to pick up the “Ladies Guide to Cooperstown.”
www.cooperstownchamber.org
www.visitingcooperstown.com
The restored buildings, landscaping, and cute shops make it a pleasant town to stroll in.
Make plans for breakfast or lunch at the Cooperstown Diner. This tiny gem is a local favorite, so there might be a wait during peak times. But it’s worth it! They are justifiably known for their burgers, which are huge and delicious. I really liked my breakfast plate of eggs, bacon, and an amazing grilled corn muffin. Everything that came out of the tiny kitchen looked and smelled fantastic.
136 1/2 Main Street
607.547.9201
www.cooperstowndiner.com
James Fenimore Cooper, author of The Deerslayer and The Last of the Mohicans, came from an influential family in…Cooperstown! The museum is located in a 1930s neo-Georgian mansion on the site of Cooper's early 19th century farmhouse. This beautiful building houses a world-class collection of American paintings, folk art, historical artifacts, furnishings, and Native American art.
The grounds are lovely and overlook Lake Ostego, the famous Glimmerglass of James Fenimore Cooper’s writings.
Highly recommended!
5798 State Highway 80
www.fenimoreartmuseum.org
The kids would love the Farmers’ Museum where they can bob for apples, feed the animals, and watch blacksmiths at work.
www.farmersmuseum.org
We enjoyed the Fly Creek Cider Mill and Orchard. It was apple season—yummy! The apple cider doughnuts will drive you wild!
www.flycreekcidermill.com
Our favorite places to shop were Schneider’s Bakery (fantastic cookies) and the Savor New York store (food, soap, linens, and dog goodies from the Empire State).
Meet up with your baseball fan at the Ommegang Brewery and discuss your day. Only you can decide how much enthusiasm about Cooperstown you’ll let show after sacrificing your day!
www.ommegang.com
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The water that flows over Niagara Falls comes from four of the five Great Lakes. From the falls, the water flows down the Niagara River to Lake Ontario, then on to the St. Lawrence to the Atlantic Ocean.
The American falls are 180 feet high with a 1100 ft-wide brink. The Canadian falls are 170 feet wide with a 2500 ft-wide brink. Over 90% of the water flows over the Canadian falls.The falls were originally located seven miles downriver, but the brinks erode as much as six feet per year, so the falls are always moving.
The Maid of the Mist boats have been plying these waters since 1845. Can you imagine doing this on a steamboat ferry?
www.maidofthemist.comIf you have any difficulty moving around, or might need a restroom during the course of an hour or so, do not get on the boat! But, of course, we’re reckless and hustled to the top front, pulling on the blue dry cleaner bags they call ponchos. If they’re handing these dinky things out, how wet could we get, right?
We were exhilarated by the tumultuous spray of the American falls as the force of the water battered the rocks.
Then we pulled near to the point and saw a glimpse of the Canadian (Horseshoe) falls up close.
And the boat kept going! We became enveloped by water and mist. The sensory experience was overwhelming and amazing.
And, in the middle of all this, a rainbow.
A wondrous life experience.
Copyright 2009, Beth SchraderBusy Traveler | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)
We were so excited to finally see Niagara Falls. I guess since it’s a popular honeymoon destination, it was fitting we went in honor of our 25th anniversary! The American Falls are impressive:
And you can walk down next to the falls and even go behind the slightly off-to-the-side Bridal Falls:
But we’ve always heard that the Canadian side had the better view, so that’s where we headed. We strolled alongside the falls area and were mesmerized by the speed and volume of the water as it hurtled to the falls.
And then we were in front of the falls, with the mist rising up above us.
The rainbows! It was a beautiful sunny day, so rainbows showed up often and in different places.
We marveled at how small the Maid of the Mist boats looked next to the Canadian falls and resolved to see it first-hand.
Coming next: Our drenching boat ride.
Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader
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Wherever you drive in this area, you get to enjoy rolling farmland, old barns and silos, and pretty little towns. I’d love to stop every 100 yards and take another photo.
Pulaski (pu-LAS-sky) seems to be the center of the fishing action in the area. We ate at one of the most popular restaurants in town, Eddy’s Place. These are seriously friendly people here and they dish up large portions of delicious comfort food. We sampled the beef tips special and the broiled fresh scallops and waddled out happy.
3866 State Route 13 (Rome Rd)
315.298.7538
www.eddysplacerestaurant.com
The Colosse Cheese Store carries a beautiful selection of New York cheeses. You might like to pick up some cheese curds and make your own poutine, a local specialty of French fries covered with cheese curds and brown gravy. Sounds disgusting, looks disgusting, tastes great.
4759 Salina St
315.298.2141
www.pulaskinychamber.com
We didn’t get to explore Syracuse much, but we did eat at two pubs.
Kitty Hoynes bills itself as a “Traditional Irish Pub & Restaurant” and it felt like it. The waitstaff has Irish accents (natural or faked, I can’t tell) and the place is filled with bonhomie, especially during a Bills football game. We enjoyed outstanding Buffalo wings and fish and chips. Our dining companions loved their meal, and everything that went by looked delish.
301 West Fayette Street
315.424.1974
www.kittyhoynes.com
It was a quiet Tuesday night when we visited Syracuse Suds. Obviously a sports-oriented establishment, the bar is replete with TVs for your viewing pleasure.
We found the beer and Buffalo wings to be so-so, but the burger was outstanding with a tasty large beef patty. They were out of the pale ale and the honey light ale. We tried the black cherry lambic and found it to be very sweet.
320 S. Clinton St.
315.471.2253
www.sudsfactory.com
Coming next: Niagara Falls!
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