Busy Traveler

Restaurant Review: Dinosaur Bar-B-Que, Syracuse, NY

The twenty minutes we waited early on a Tuesday evening was nothing compared to the usual hour-or-two ordeal to get in. This Syracuse institution was started by three bikers who traveled the south to perfect their barbecue chops. By the looks of the Antone’s posters all over the bar, they spent considerable time in Austin.

In the name of familial harmony, this Austinite was willing to test this so-called barbecue served in, of all places, New York. (Sounds like a salsa ad, doesn’t it?)

I decided that you can’t beat Texas beef brisket, so I sampled the pork: a ribs-and-pork brisket combo plate. First the ribs: smoky, succulent, messy--altogether a high-quality rib experience. Next up was the pork (what’s a pork brisket anyway?).

I have to hang my head…it was some of the best barbecue I’ve ever tasted! I mean I was shoveling it in and moaning at the same time. I am not generally a big meat eater, but I barely touched my sides and cornbread. I ATE MEAT AND MORE MEAT!

To justify my heresy, I figure these guys studied at the feet of the Texas masters (and maybe a little Memphis, too) and spread the gospel to Upstate New York. If you find yourself up that way and are homesick for great barbecue, run--don't walk--to the Dinosaur!

246 W. Willow Street
Syracuse, NY 13202
315-476-4937
www.dinosaurbarbque.com

Day in the Finger Lakes Area, Part 2: Glass Masterpieces

This was my #1 choice to see this trip. Everything I’d heard about the Corning Museum of Glass was true, and then some! www.cmog.org

We were awed by the artistry and the variety of these treasures.

 

We spent a lot of time in the Contemporary/Sculpture gallery.

 

But time was running out (The museum closes at 5PM in the off-season.) and we had to race through the rest of the museum. The exhibits are arranged by the location and time period of the artists.

Ancient and Roman

 

Islamic World

 

 

Asian

Early European

 

Later European

American

Crystal

 Paperweights

Modern

 

And we didn’t even make it to the Tiffany exhibit or the demonstration studio.

I took photos like crazy until my memory card was full. Next time, I’ll make sure to allot most of a day to inspect the galleries and will sign up for the glassblowing class.

If you are anywhere near the Finger Lakes area, do NOT miss this museum!

 

Copyright 2010 Beth Schrader

Day in the Finger Lakes Area, Part 1: Culinary Mecca

We had one day to play, so Melissa, Joan, and I headed out to hit a few highlights around the Finger Lakes. 

(image from explorethefingerlakes.com)

 The scenery was the epitome of spring: fruit trees dripping with blooms, chartreuse leaves budding everywhere, geese honking as they settled in for the season, happy cows and horses. I wanted to photograph everything, but we wouldn’t have gotten very far! It’s not a National Geographic “Drive of a Lifetime” for nothing!

Luckily, Melissa had a destination in mind: The New York Wine & Culinary Center (www.nywcc.com). This is a foodie/wino’s paradise. The classroom and amphitheater were amazing. Sign me up!

 

 

The wine tasting room was upscale-rustic and featured New York wines at very reasonable prices. In fact, everything at this center was value priced (as my receipt from the gift shop shows!). If it hadn’t been so early, I would’ve done a flight tasting, instead of just one glass with lunch.

 

Who’s going to join me in the private dining room for a multi-course experience?

We had a luscious lunch with a beautiful view of Canandaigua Lake.

Melissa and I had the Long Island duck BLT with cranberry mayonnaise and a green apple-fennel slaw. Joan was very happy with her pork loin panini with carrot-cilantro slaw. Melissa had a glass of the Shalestone Cabernet Franc 2007 and it was so good that we bought a bottle to take with us. I enjoyed the Pinot Noir and Joan the Dry Riesling, a specialty of the Finger Lakes region. We happily licked our fingers and headed to the next stop.

Coming tomorrow: Glass Masterpieces

Copyright 2010 Beth Schrader

Scenes from upstate New York

Here are a few of my favorite shots from the trip.

 

 

 

Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader

Boldt Castle, Thousand Islands, NY

On our boat trip around the Thousand Islands, we went ashore on Heart Island to explore Boldt Castle.

 

The story behind this extravagant structure is gloomy. In 1900, George Boldt was the wealthy proprietor of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City. Being the typical "nouveau riche" millionaire of the time, he built a summer “cottage” for his family in the Thousand Islands. The structure became ever more grandiose to display his love for his wife, Louise.

 

During four summers, 300 workers constructed the six-story, 120-room castle. Not a single detail or expense was spared. The basement area included a pool and bowling lanes and the children enjoyed a whimsical playhouse.

Even the yacht garage was extravagant.

 
In 1904, Boldt telegraphed the island and commanded the workers to stop construction -- Louise had died. Boldt never returned to the island, leaving behind the structure as a monument of his love. For 73 years, the castle and its related buildings were untouched, deteriorating from weather and vandals. The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property in 1977 and began restoration.

Most of the rooms on the first floor are restored and furnished, but most of the second, third, and fourth floors are unfinished. There are interesting exhibits in some of these rooms containing artifacts from the Thousand Islands region during this period.

 

At the top, we were rewarded with beautiful views.

 

www.boldtcastle.com

Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader

The Thousand Islands Region, New York

I knew nothing about this gorgeous area (Yes, thousand island dressing originated here!). From Wikipedia:

The Thousand Islands is the name of an archipelago of islands that straddle the U.S.-Canada border in the Saint Lawrence River as it emerges from the northeast corner of Lake Ontario. They stretch for about 50 miles downstream from Kingston, Ontario. The islands, which number 1,793 in all [other sources say 1,864], range in size from over 40 square miles to smaller islands occupied by a single residence, to even smaller uninhabited outcroppings of rocks that are home to migratory waterfowl. The number of islands was determined using the criteria that any island must be above water level for 365 days per year, bigger than one square foot and support at least one living tree.

On a glorious Indian summer day, we drove to the picturesque town of Alexandria Bay, had lunch, and then set out on a boat tour of the area. The guide said it was the best visibility of the season. I believe it!

In the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century, this area was a summer destination for enormously rich families, many of whom came by train from New York City. They built mansions and beautiful garages for their yachts.

The homeowners included George Boldt, a hotelier; Frederick Bourne, president of the Singer Sewing Machine Company; Andrew McNally of Rand McNally maps; George Pullman, creator of Pullman railroad cars; William Proctor of Proctor and Gamble; and Nathan and Isidor Straus, owners of Macy’s.

Large hotels and guesthouses also catered to well-off visitors. Promotional literature for one advised, “Just bring your trunks and servants.” We saw many of these extravagant mansions along the stretch of the river dubbed “Millionaire’s Row.”

 

Supposedly, Deer Island is owned by the secret society Skull and Bones. Ohhh, I think I remember a movie set on an island owned by a secret society of wealthy political movers and shakers!

A series of bridges links many of the islands, though most are accessible by boat only. The international boundary runs down the middle of the river, and often the only way to tell if an island house is American or Canadian is to look at the flag flying outside. Legend has it that this bridge spans the two countries. True or not, it’s really cute.

 

 In modern times, the area has been populated by more modest homes, and some not-so-modest.

 

I want to spend summers here!

usboattours.com/1000islands

www.thousandislands.com

www.visit1000islands.com/visitorinfo

www.alexbay.org/

travel.nytimes.com/2007/08/24/travel/escapes/24thousand.html

Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader

Cooperstown, NY

If your male friend is dying to go to the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, sigh and tell him that you’ll sacrifice your day for him. Drop him off and then go have fun!
www.baseballhall.org

Cooperstown has done a wonderful job for those of us who would rather do other things. In fact, you first stop should be the Chamber of Commerce to pick up the “Ladies Guide to Cooperstown.”
www.cooperstownchamber.org
www.visitingcooperstown.com

The restored buildings, landscaping, and cute shops make it a pleasant town to stroll in. 

Make plans for breakfast or lunch at the Cooperstown Diner. This tiny gem is a local favorite, so there might be a wait during peak times. But it’s worth it! They are justifiably known for their burgers, which are huge and delicious. I really liked my breakfast plate of eggs, bacon, and an amazing grilled corn muffin. Everything that came out of the tiny kitchen looked and smelled fantastic.

136 1/2 Main Street
607.547.9201
www.cooperstowndiner.com 

Fenimore Art Museum

James Fenimore Cooper, author of The Deerslayer and The Last of the Mohicans, came from an influential family in…Cooperstown! The museum is located in a 1930s neo-Georgian mansion on the site of Cooper's early 19th century farmhouse. This beautiful building houses a world-class collection of American paintings, folk art, historical artifacts, furnishings, and Native American art.

The grounds are lovely and overlook Lake Ostego, the famous Glimmerglass of James Fenimore Cooper’s writings.

Highly recommended!
5798 State Highway 80
www.fenimoreartmuseum.org

The kids would love the Farmers’ Museum where they can bob for apples, feed the animals, and watch blacksmiths at work.
www.farmersmuseum.org

We enjoyed the Fly Creek Cider Mill and Orchard. It was apple season—yummy! The apple cider doughnuts will drive you wild!
www.flycreekcidermill.com

Our favorite places to shop were Schneider’s Bakery (fantastic cookies) and the Savor New York store (food, soap, linens, and dog goodies from the Empire State).

www.savor-newyork.com

Meet up with your baseball fan at the Ommegang Brewery and discuss your day. Only you can decide how much enthusiasm about Cooperstown you’ll let show after sacrificing your day!
www.ommegang.com

Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader

Niagara Falls, Vol. 1

We were so excited to finally see Niagara Falls. I guess since it’s a popular honeymoon destination, it was fitting we went in honor of our 25th anniversary! The American Falls are impressive: 

And you can walk down next to the falls and even go behind the slightly off-to-the-side Bridal Falls:

But we’ve always heard that the Canadian side had the better view, so that’s where we headed. We strolled alongside the falls area and were mesmerized by the speed and volume of the water as it hurtled to the falls.

And then we were in front of the falls, with the mist rising up above us.

The rainbows! It was a beautiful sunny day, so rainbows showed up often and in different places.

We marveled at how small the Maid of the Mist boats looked next to the Canadian falls and resolved to see it first-hand.

Coming next: Our drenching boat ride.

Copyright 2009, Beth Schrader

Autumn Lake Area, Vol. 2

Wherever you drive in this area, you get to enjoy rolling farmland, old barns and silos, and pretty little towns. I’d love to stop every 100 yards and take another photo.

Pulaski

Pulaski (pu-LAS-sky) seems to be the center of the fishing action in the area. We ate at one of the most popular restaurants in town, Eddy’s Place. These are seriously friendly people here and they dish up large portions of delicious comfort food. We sampled the beef tips special and the broiled fresh scallops and waddled out happy.
3866 State Route 13 (Rome Rd)
315.298.7538
www.eddysplacerestaurant.com

The Colosse Cheese Store carries a beautiful selection of New York cheeses. You might like to pick up some cheese curds and make your own poutine, a local specialty of French fries covered with cheese curds and brown gravy. Sounds disgusting, looks disgusting, tastes great.

4759 Salina St
315.298.2141‎
www.pulaskinychamber.com

Syracuse

We didn’t get to explore Syracuse much, but we did eat at two pubs.

Kitty Hoynes bills itself as a “Traditional Irish Pub & Restaurant” and it felt like it. The waitstaff has Irish accents (natural or faked, I can’t tell) and the place is filled with bonhomie, especially during a Bills football game. We enjoyed outstanding Buffalo wings and fish and chips. Our dining companions loved their meal, and everything that went by looked delish.
301 West Fayette Street
315.424.1974
www.kittyhoynes.com

It was a quiet Tuesday night when we visited Syracuse Suds. Obviously a sports-oriented establishment, the bar is replete with TVs for your viewing pleasure. We found the beer and Buffalo wings to be so-so, but the burger was outstanding with a tasty large beef patty. They were out of the pale ale and the honey light ale. We tried the black cherry lambic and found it to be very sweet.
320 S. Clinton St.
315.471.2253
www.sudsfactory.com

Coming next: Niagara Falls!

Autumn Lake Area, Vol. 1

My knowledge of upstate New York geography was pretty much zilch. I’ve been to Rochester and Albany on business, but they were strictly in-and-out trips. Imagine how excited we were to learn that Autumn Lake is within a couple of hours of several gorgeous areas and sights:

• Niagara Falls
• The Finger Lakes
• The Adirondacks
• The Thousand Islands Region
• Cooperstown
• Erie Canal
• Lake Placid
• Wine and culinary trails
• Historical sites, especially from the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812
• Beaches

Later, I will post notes and photos from the places on this list that we explored. However, today and tomorrow I am concentrating on the immediate vicinity of Autumn Lake (Tug Hill Region).

Salmon River

If you like to fish, get yourself to the Salmon River! The fish caught here are consistently rated the largest in New York. I’ve never seen so many people (mostly men) in hip waders! The Salmon River Fish Hatchery is one source of this bounty. We were lucky enough to be there during the fall salmon run and couldn’t believe the density of very large salmon swimming up the ladders to spawn. See the change in the stream’s color on the left of the photo? The dark area on the right is solid salmon.

Before you start fishing, make sure you consult the Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) website for rules and regulations. This area is awash in bait and tackle shops, fish cleaning stations, fish smoking services, and any kind of gear you can imagine. My favorite bait and tackle shop is Fat Nancy’s in Pulaski. I was hoping to meet the woman nicknamed Fat Nancy, but it turns out that it’s the name of a huge sturgeon in Lake Ontario that has eluded anglers for years.

www.dec.ny.gov
www.seagrant.sunysb.edu

Lake Ontario: Selkirk Shores

Just minutes away from Autumn Lake, Selkirk Shores is a lovely beach on Lake Ontario. Swimming, fishing, and walking the trails were the main activities when we visited. The Lake is on the direct migration route for many bird species. In the winter, cross-country skiers and snowmobilers enjoy the trails.

nysparks.state.ny.us/parks

Sackets Harbor

Sackets Harbor, only 30 miles across Lake Ontario from Canada, was the site of a pivotal naval battle in the War of 1812. Because it was the headquarters of the US Military for the northern frontier and had a large shipbuilding facility, this strategic location was attacked by the British and Upper Canada forces in 1813. The attack was defeated after a lengthy battle. See www.sacketsharborbattlefield.org for details.

The town of Sackets Harbor is lovely. Beautiful old buildings and hidden gardens present perfect excuses for strolling.

We enjoyed an excellent dinner at Tin Pan Galley on their romantic patio. The dishes were fresh, luscious, and presented beautifully.

www.tinpangalley.com

Coming next: Autumn Lake area, vol. 2

The Cottages at Autumn Lake, NY

After a 45-minute (or so) drive from the Syracuse airport, we turned onto Dean Dr. outside Orwell for our stay at The Cottages at Autumn Lake.

We stayed in Samson’s Chalet, named—as are all the cabins—after a family dog. The cottage was very pretty, with two bedrooms, one bath, kitchen, sitting area with futon, and dining table. It was nicely stocked with TV and movies, s'mores ingredients, cards and games, and toiletries.

And the best part: the view! From each bedroom you see lovely Autumn Lake.

The deck of the cottage is the perfect place to spend all day, contemplating the onset of fall.

If you’re feeling energetic, stroll down to the dock and take one of the canoes or paddleboats out of the cove into the main part of the lake.

Bliss!
thecottagesatautumnlake.com

Coming up: Notes on the area.